Thursday, August 21, 2014

Mount Fuji

You guys. I climbed a mountain. It was quite a challenge, but it was also an incredibly rewarding experience. Here's how it went down, y'all.

Packed and ready to catch an early morning train from Tempozan to Shin-Osaka station, where we'd catch the bullet train.
My backpack was pretty stuffed, full of clothes, food, water, and toiletries/first aid stuff. For a first time climber I think I did pretty well in bringing enough/not too much of each of those categories. Could have used a thicker coat for the summit, but that's really about it.

Shinkansen, or bullet train, 2 1/2 hours from Osaka to Tokyo, arrived just before 11am

Inside the shinkansen. From Tokyo station we found a rep from the tour company and took a bus about three more hours to Fuji

The bus took us to the fifth station on the Yoshida trail, one of several different routes one can take on the mountain. All climbs start partway up the mountain at the fifth station. Why they don't just call the fifth station the first station, I'm not totally sure.

Even from our starting point, we were already in the clouds

Ready to go! Bought that wood stick for 1000 yen. I could have gotten it stamped at each station after that but each stamp cost more money, so eff that

To the left, the guy in charge of our group on the bus. To the right, our mountain guide. We booked a tour package through one of the Japanese stage managers at work, and we didn't quite know what to expect before we got there. Both of these guys frequently gave information and instructions that we didn't understand, so we just followed along with whatever everyone else in the group was doing.

We were instructed to tie these to our bags so other group members could be easily identified while on the mountain

Horses!

Just our mountain guide having a quick smoke before we started. Like...what??

Away we go! We started our ascent at a little after 4pm

Right away we basically walked through a cloud



Gravity can have a pretty cool effect on the way trees grow





After a while of walking slightly uphill around the side of the mountain, we got to the sixth station, where our path turned directly upwards. Here we can see all the huts that line the path up the mountain, one of which we'd be staying at in the evening.


We're in the skyyyyyyyy!

Yeah, three more climbers from our group stopping for a quick cigarette. They know we're about to climb a mountain, right??

Onward and upward!



We were ruhl excited about the climb, y'all

A lot of people had fancy shmancy metal climbing stick thingy-mabobs

I, however, quite liked my wood stick (as well as keeping my other hand free). Also, I borrowed these hiking boots and they were absolutely crucial

I took a lot of pictures of clouds. It was pretty amazing to see, but I guess you kinda had to be there lolz




Getting closer to the huts

About two hours in and the path was finally starting to get a little rougher

I thought this might be as hard as it would get. I was wrong.

Each hut had a bathroom that cost 200yen, though most of them had no way of actually knowing if you paid or not. I secretly paid 101yen instead OOPS SORRY. But not really sorry, all I did was pee in a hole.

Snacks were also crucial to my success. This is pocky, a Japanese fave that's basically long cookie/cracker/pretzel sticks dipped in a little frosting.

As the sun set on the opposite side of the mountain, the sky turned to some pretty colors before getting dark



Still a ways to go, but we made it to the hut we were to stay at before 7:30pm. "Just over three hours of pretty easy climbing and we're already at the hut? This is gonna be a piece of cake," I thought to myself, foolishly.

Inside the hut we were directed to sit at tables for a quick dinner

More info from the guide that I didn't understand

Dinner! Japanese curry and rice

After dinner it was bedtime. There were rows of sleeping bags all right next to each other, so it was time to get cozy with some Japanese strangers. Also, it was not even 8pm. I took a few melatonin tablets to try to get some sleep, thinking we'd be waking up around 1am.

I barely caught any sleep, mostly because of the early hour and the snoring all around me, and then all of a sudden it was time to go! I hastily put more layers on and left the sleeping area, where I learned that it was only about 11:30pm. Now that's an early morning! Oof.

We were given a to-go meal for later, which was some rice, salmon, a meatball, and a bit of pickled something or other

A view of below the mountain at night (my camera isn't great with night pictures, even when I set it on "night." WHATEVER)

This Falling Rocks sign looked like some rocks had fallen on it

Ok, it's starting to get more mountain-y

This was at some point during the late night climb, can't quite remember when. I couldn't take many pics on the way up at this point. The path got rockier and steeper and the temperature was much colder, and after a while the pace became very slow due to the amount of people trying to get to the top in time for the sunrise. Even though we were all going to the same place our guide did not allow anyone to go ahead of the group, which was a bit frustrating at one point, as Lauren and I wanted to snake our way though the crowds instead of following along in a slow single-file line up the path. Toward the top though, the air was getting colder and thinner, and the slower pace was probably better for our bodies. I concentrated on inhaling through my nose and exhaling twice as long through my mouth, watching the feet of the person in front of me, and thinking warm thoughts. Glances up to the top were disheartening, as it seemed like this cold, dark, difficult part of the climb had no end in sight.

After what seemed like an eternity, we began to notice the beginnings of a sunrise behind us. "This must mean we're close!" Indeed, about five minutes later the steep path came to an abrupt end, and boom, there we were, at the summit of Mount Fuji. I almost didn't believe it, convinced it was just a big hut and we had more climbing to do. It was just after 4:15am when we arrived, and the sun was scheduled to rise just after 5:00. We were told to meet at a certain spot at 4:50 to watch the sunrise with the group, and until then we had the time to ourselves. I sort of just wandered around for a few minutes, bewildered and exhausted, but really, really happy.

The summit was paaacked. There were a bunch of places to get souvenirs, food, drinks, and rest.


These cans of coffee and hot chocolate were sitting in a vat of hot water

I thought I earned myself a hot chocolate

It was the best hot chocolate of my life

This was at about 4:35. Even well before the sun rose it was a beautiful sight



With the group at 4:50. One spectacular sunrise, coming up!

Oh HEY there sun, I didn't see you there!








The sunrise itself was breathtaking, but the communal and cultural experience with all the other climbers made it even more special. Our guide led some sort of little call-and-response chant after it rose all the way, and I wish I knew what it was.



And right after the sunrise, it was time to head back down. We went down a different way than we came up. The paths were bigger, flatter, less rocky, and zig-zagged all the way down.










We were warned that the descent could be hard on your knees, so I was careful to keep my knees slightly bent the whole way. The way I walked down the mountain actually made it easier to go fast rather than to take it slow, not to mention the fact that I was tired as balls and wanted to get the eff off the mountain asap, so I practically ran down this thing.



I did stop to take a few more stunning photos on the way though. Oh what a beautiful moooorning, as my mom would sing


I was never more excited to smell horse poop than I was when I was coming down the mountain, as it meant I was nearing the end! A few minutes later, I saw an actual horse, and at that point the way down had joined with the path we had taken up, so I recognized where I was and knew it wouldn't be long. I did stop at one point to put bandaids on my big toes, as both had developed huge blisters on the way down.

Ignoring the box on the top right and just looking at the mountain part on the left, I took the far right yellow line up and the middle zig-zaggy yellow line down


This was just a few minutes before I got back to the fifth station.

I reached the fifth station by about 7:45am, making my descent in about 2 hours and 30 minutes, which, in comparison to the 8 hour ascent, is a breeze. I found a bathroom, changed my clothes and shoes, reorganized my bag, threw out garbage, and then found Lauren. We had about an hour until we met up with the group to get back on the bus, so we sat in a little cafe area that had wifi (woo!) until it was time to go.

I'm not sure if we booked our trip late or what, but there were three more people on the bus than actual seats, which were assigned, so Lauren and I had to sit on fold out chairs in the aisle. There was no support for my head so I couldn't fall asleep for more than a few seconds before my head fell over and jerked myself awake. It was torturous after a sleepless night of mountain-climbing. We drove for an hour or so to an onsen, a Japanese bathhouse. The men separated from the women, and we got undressed and entered the  bath area, which had individual little stations to sit at and shower and two big hot tubs. I gave myself a much-needed wash and then sat in the hot tub for about fifteen minutes, just soaking and relaxing. After I dried and dressed I made my way to the lunch buffet. We left at 2:00, dropped some group members off at the Tokyo airport at 5pm, and made it to the Tokyo station at 6pm. From there we took a shinkansen back to Osaka, which arrived shortly after 9pm, then hopped on the subway line to head home. We made it back at around 10pm, and I was ready for a good night's sleep in a bed. Then it was up at 8am for a 9am call this morning at work. It was a jam-packed two days, and despite the exhaustion and the sore muscles, I'm so glad that I did it. It gave me stunning sights, challenged me physically and mentally, and taught me a lot about Japan and its people. It was certainly an experience I'll never forget and will be one of my favorites parts about my time here in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Alright, now it's time for a hot bath, I've been back for 25 hours now and my thighs are more sore than they've ever been in my liiiiiiife. My next adventure might be a tad less physical in nature. Later, y'all!



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